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February 6 Monday Bicycle touring Italy Sardinia from a beach past Matzaccara Sardegna to some military concrete bunkers on the coast of Sardinia The small row boats, used for fishing the shallow bay, stood empty, bobbing, on the windy waves this morning. We backtracked on our fully loaded touring bicycles to Matzaccara, waving at the school children on a soccer field, as they yelled bon voyage, to pick up a road to Portoscuso. We cycled past ugly refinery smokestacks belching grey smoke up into the atmosphere for an aluminum company, overlooking one side of the coast. In Portoscuso, a bitchy woman behind a deli counter was in what appeared to be an ever present foul mood, unsmiling and rude. Three? Three slices? She shakes her gap-toothed head. We cycle to the port to eat our ham and cheese sandwiches while sitting on pink benches. The sun feels good as it breaks through the clouds. We are sheltered from a northwest wind that buffeted us on the highway during our Sardinia bicycle tour. Cycling out of town, we go for a panoramic vista road that is missing large chunks of asphalt. Lots of great spots to the crashing sea below. We cycle on until the road turns to sand at the a point. Military concrete bunkers are strategically located facing seaward. We get off our fully loaded touring bicycles to explore the area. Hills with holes and caves are behind us. To the north, the coast becomes steep headlands, rising vertically from the foaming pounding waves. We don't camp on the ridge. A midnight pee break may end with me 300 feet over the cliff ... and no bush to hold me up. |
