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April 10 Monday Bicycle touring France from Theoule France to Les Arcs France Whew! The little gravel road turned out to be a dog-walker path, as well as a favourite for hard core mountain bikers. We waited until it was dark and then pushed our bikes back to the "easy" place Sharon had seen. This easy spot entailed removing all of our touring bicycle's panniers and cycling gear (tent, sleeping bags, ground pads), and then hoisting our bikes up a treacherous loose slope in the twilight. At the top were rocks, sticks, stinging nettles, thorns, and a creek, which didn't leave much room, but we managed to squeeze onto a tiny outcrop flanked by the stream on one side and a ditch on the other. So many trees and yet no flat spots to pitch our little two-man bicycle touring tent. I was cranky and tired and hungry. Sharon insisted on making pasta -- I thought it was too much trouble to drag everything out, but I must say I was a lot happier by the time she finished. It feels cooler tonight. But I will sleep well. Not as much traffic along this road. Better to appreciate the stunning views. Stopped at a little town when we saw a boulongerie shop and bought baguettes to eat in the park. Fantastic. I love fresh out of the oven hot bread. It is good to be back bicycle touring in France. Cheap chocolate. Calm and orderly. Someone described Italians as happy Frenchmen, but I doubt you would find many takers, of either nationality, that would agree with his assessment. In St Raphael we phoned Helene and Paul. Helene has been busy packing, in preparation for their move back to Canada. The Canadian dollar was worth 6.8 francs when they moved to France twelve years ago; now it is 3.6, and they find living in France too expensive for their limited income. We ate lunch in Lumuy by the canal while watching fishermen. The sun was out and it felt great. Fishing -- a spectator sport. We arrived at Helene and Paul's to discover that Paul has been sick with bronchitis. He was in the hospital for two weeks, but he is home now. He looks tired. He is 75 years old; Helene is 50. We stayed for supper and overnight. Helene gave us a pile of books and I picked out a few to read. Among them were a Stephen King and an Alfred Hitchcock anthology. |
